Arose
well before dawn for the drive to Pennsylvania’s elk range and got
on the road shortly afterwards. First stop was at the doughnut shop
for a large coffee with skin milk and extra sugar as well as a
cinnamon-raisin bagel. Then it was on the road passing a few houses
where lights glowed and seeing some other early-risers who were also on the
road.
Arrived
at my destination during morning nautical twilight (when the horizon
is visible but objects on the ground are not easily distinguished), just before
what photographers call the “blue hour”. Parked the car and
headed up the hill on an old road through a typical early morning
fog. On the hill’s crest a spike bull elk grazed –
And
dew spangled a spider’s web –
Then
over the crest and down the other side where the old road ran through
woods and paralleled a small stream. On the other side of the stream
was a strip of woods and then a large grassy field.
A
bull elk bugled from the wooded strip, but couldn’t be seen so I
walked further down the hill and then across the stream to the edge
of the field, where –
There
were seven bull elk, three with branched antlers and four with only spikes, a bachelor group whose bulls hadn't been able to gather a harem and thus weren't going to be the sires of next year's calves. Even so one of the larger bulls dominated the younger animals –
After
watching and photographing these elk for a while I looked around and
saw a much larger bull with wide-spreading antlers, apparently the
one that had bugled, walking into the field. He passed within about
150 feet, seeming to ignore the mere human who was photographing him
–
It
looked like he’d been pretty well battered in a fight with another
bull, with two puncture wounds that
match the spacing of an elk’s brow tines and having lost a large patch of hair. Oh to have seen that
battle.
After he walked past me, he headed straight for the other bulls who kept their
distance and gave him a fairly wide berth. They all headed across the
clearing and up the far hillside –
All
the elk disappeared into the forest, there to spend the day resting and
ruminating. As for me, I decided to head into the 50,000 acre
Quehanna Wild Area to scout for signs of other elk activity.
A
little over one
hundred years ago the last of the Quehanna’s
valuable white pine and hemlock timber had been cut, some logs floated down the streams to the sawmills, but most hauled
by logging railroads. Forest fires followed
the logging, the
land was sold to become part of two state forests, and the regenerating forest was vastly different. Some of the old pine
stumps persist, but are gradually succumbing to fungi (and
tree roots) –
While
in other places there are old trees, like this white oak, that
obviously spent years growing
in
the open while younger trees came up around them –
There
were eight small subsistence farms in the area, none of which lasted
very long due to infertile soils and a short growing season. Several
of those open areas are now managed for wildlife, including elk.
The
old farms aren’t the only open areas, in some places trees never returned
after the fires that followed the original logging, while other openings are
abandoned beaver ponds. There are active beaver colonies as well –
A
few
scattered
openings were planted to conifers –
But
probably 90% of Quehanna is occupied by a mix of oak, maple, aspen
and birch of varying ages –
‘Nough
of Quehanna, it was getting late in the afternoon and time to head
back to where I’d seen the bull elk in the morning. So it was up
the hill, over the top and down to
the clearing.
Patience
is a necessity for wildlife photographers, a quality I don’t
possess in any quantity so I moved to three different places in the
course of the hour it took for the elk to make their evening
appearance.
But
appear they did; and, except for this yearling, they were closer to where I'd first sat on the edge of the opening – oh well!
Then it was the end
of day, not enough light for photos, time to head home.